1. What year model?
2. Are you the first owner?
3. What modifications have been done to the bike?
4. Was the bike shipped from the factory with the quick shifter or was it added later as an accessory?

 

1. What year model?
2018 or 2019 (SC80)

2. Are you the first owner?
Technically, yes. But it was the “test ride” bike of the store with 600 km on it. So it probably wasn’t babied.

3. What modifications have been done to the bike?
Nothing really. I put in a booster plug once but took it out after a few weeks.


4. Was the bike shipped from the factory with the quick shifter or was it added later as an accessory?
It didn’t have one. I negotiated to have them put one in when buying. Constantly had issues with it. Went there several times - until they finally replaced the whole qshifter. Worked flawlessly for a year.

 

check for codes?

 

Interesting. I will look into that. I’m guessing I can’t do that myself - without the hard/software, right?

 

Is the OEM battery still on the bike? If so, it may need to be replaced. Bikes and cars with electronic throttles start doing weird things when the batteries begin to get weak.
Make sure the battery leads are tight.

 

No, the OEM batt is long gone. Upgraded to a good one. I’d be surprised if this is the issue but I’ll check.

 

But did you get a check engine light? Before you replaced the battery?

 

Me? No, because the battery never failed to start the bike but the CCA had decreased due to age. I also never had an issue with the quick shifter.
Have the battery load tested. Not sure about your country, but in the US auto parts stores will load test batteries free of charge.

 

Honest question … just trying to troubleshoot - before having to leave hundreds of dollars at a dealership

 

Update:
Bike stood over night (under its hood) and when I took it to work this morning (for lack of a transport alternative) the engine light was still on.

After 20-30 minutes inner city traffic and a quick stop to pick something up, the light went away!!

new emotion unlocked: Suspiciously happy!

Should I still have a mech read the bike out or take the win and call it a day?

 

Update:
Bike stood over night (under its hood) and when I took it to work this morning (for lack of a transport alternative) the engine light was still on.

After 20-30 minutes inner city traffic and a quick stop to pick something up, the light went away!!

new emotion unlocked: Suspiciously happy!

Should I still have a mech read the bike out or take the win and call it a day?

engine light will stay on while the fault is active, but if it goes away, the light will go off, but the code will be stored and can be read.
Better to read the code and find out what cuased the light to come on.

to read codes ( as per image above)
take pillion seat/cowl off, find the red plug cover, pull the red plug cover off, put a wire or paperclip between the blue and green LIGHT GREEN AND GREEN wires.
Then turn ign key to ON (don't start bike), and count the light flashes (short and long) to read the codes.
then turn ignition keyt OFF, remove wire, replace red cap, post here what the codes are.

or get mechanic to read the codes if you are not confident

 

Thank you very much! I will go ahead and do that.

 

Euro4 , MIL geht aus wenn keine Fehler mehr hast , so alles Jut.

 

gone for now, but nice to know what it was in case it comes back or is intermittent (plus is good to be able to read your own codes for convenience)

 

Was a little swamped with work but I will give an update shortly!

 

The service manual has a few mistakes, and many instructions are unclear. For example, reading the DTC by MIL. First of all, not MIL is flashing, but ABS.
Second: erasing DTC by reconnecting the jumper within 5 seconds, the ABS lasts just for 2 seconds and disappears from the dashboard.

 

My 2019 Neo Sports showed two weeks ago the MIL, reading code 3 long 3 short which is unfortunately not to cancel by diagnosic plug, even woolich tool could not cancel it.
The guy who flashed my Fireblade said, that this error P062F is quite often with the SC80 ECU, means that the EEPROM is defective. He adviced me to aks Honda for guarantee, but my Bike is model 2019 and bought at the beginning of Corona-wave April 2020, so no guarantee for sure availale...

So I bought a used ECU and sent the old ECU, the keys and the new one to a Tuner in the Netherlands who offers to connect the keys with the new ECU so that I can use this one without need to change all locks and keys.
We will see, whether it will work, awaiting it back next week.

 

This is from SC80 manual. start by checking ABS fuse

for SC80, P062F is 33-2

 

ahh you're right.. DTC vs MIL...

good luck with getting it fixed

 

Apologies for the late reply!!

so!! The fault was identified and you’ll never guess it …

my clutch wire was loose, the computer turned that into “oh, the clutch is pulled? Better lock the Quck Shifter” and thus created an engine error

 

Clutch wire? What do you mean

 

Hi Donnie,

do you remember what exactly was the DTC of your loose wire?

 

Didn't do it myself but went to the dealer instead because MY BIKE GOT HIT BY A CAR AS WELL!
Man, I am really havin a streak of bad luck right now.

So, since I had to go get it checked for damages anyway, I had the mech read out the codes.

113-1 = "Failure in clutch switch (always on)"

 

Sorry. English is not my first language. I mean the little steel rope coming out of the clutch lever ... apparently, there was too much slack in the line and the sensor got confused, thinking the "clutch is always pulled", thus disabling the quick shifter.

 

Ahh the clutch cable. Gotcha. Dont be sorry, i was just wondering if your bike had some sort of wire n sensor different from mine.

 

Clutch wire has nothing to do with QS! There is a switch in clutch lever and that's is only one reason QS can be disabled.